Monday, I got up late because the dogs in the various farms near me kept me up all night barking. Apparently, there are black wild pigs that forage on the mountain side. Perhaps a few were “invading” the farms. I had visited the northern boundary of the Madonai Regional Nature Park so I decided to try and go to the southern boundary. The area is quite large and includes several high peaks which still had snow. I have to go through Castelbuono but I decided to take a different route, east along the SS113 (instead of through Isnello) and then pick up the SS286 to Castelbuono and Geraci Siculo to Monte di Corvo. I could then go west along the SP120 and visit the two Petralias (Soprana and Sottana), taking the small unmarked roads. The views of the Tyrrhenian and Cefalu were spectacular. The side roads through the mountains were also scenic and no traffic (even livestock). I think this area is more alpine and is mainly used for mountain tourism.
Petralia Sottana (lower Petralia) is perched on a rocky spur overlooking the Imera valley. I had no trouble getting to Petralia Sottana and finding the castello and church since you can see them from afar. There appears to be one main street (Corso Paolo Agliata) that is lined with weathered medieval churches, small piazzas surrounded by shuttered stone houses and ending at the top of the hill with an evocative Castello. You enter the piazza of the Castello through a gate/bell tower. It was ringing as I got there and frightening all the swallows into flight. I was lucky to find parking just inside the gate and walked to the Castello which has wonderful views of the valley over the typical tiled roofs.
I had no trouble getting to the inner courtyard which had parking. Since I was the only one there except for some bureaucrats from Palermo with clipboards examining the buildings, it was easy to leave the car and explore the inner courtyard and cobbled streets. I discovered Saint Frances Church, built in the 15th century but did not enter. There were several churches, besides the Chiese Madre whose dome can be seen when aproaching Petralia Sottana. I think the church on the right is the Chiesa della Misercordia which has an inlaid meridian line on the floor.
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I tried to find Petralia Soprana (3 km away), even asking the bureaucrats from Palermo but no luck. I went through some beautiful mountains, olive groves, and finally back home. I will try to get to Petralia Soprana and Gangi another day..
Friday was another sunny day with the temperature reaching the mid 20’s in the sun. I have been taking the smaller road down to the SS113 to the east of Cefalu. It has some great rural properties some of which are for sale. The views are also great so they are probably expensive.
As I drove up the lungomare, I could see some people on the beach; but I decided to first go to the Duomo Piazza for a morning coffee. There already were more tourists, probably here for the Easter weekend.
After coffee, I wandered around some of the medieval streets. In the bright sunshine, they did not look so touristy but there are still too many cars. I loved the curtains they put up on the balconies for shade and privacy.
I also explored the church at the end of Cefalu, just before the port. It has a very simple exterior and interior. Instead of a churchyard it has a wonderful rocky “beachyard”. I then went to the beach and lay in the sun for an hour before returning home.
Today, Saturday, was a great day to head to Monreale – a suburb of Palermo where King William II built a gorgeous cathedral. William II employed the very best Arabic, Byzantine, and Norman craftsmen to work on the cathedral. The result is a new form of architecture, unique to Sicily, fusing the architectural styles of Norman and Byzantine artistic traditions. It is a tribute to the fruitful coexistence of people of different origins.
The drive was uneventful, even through Palermo. There was little traffic. I arrived there and there were very few cars in the parking lot. There were kiosks set up, selling souvenirs, fresh orange juice, and Arabic sweets. I bought some Turkish delight and proceeded up the steep path to the cathedral.
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The front of the cathedral is framed by two tan Norman bell towers surrounding a white and gray entrance and including three arches decorated with geometric patterns. The whole façade appears delicate and graceful, of unmistakable Arabic influence.
When I entered the cathedral I was bathed in golden light and immense spaces with the nave ahead and to the right the sanctuary.
What I first noticed is the decorated beams forming the ceilings and surrounded by mosaics depicting scenes from the Old Testament. But the piece de resistance was the mosaic of Christ Pantocrator in the East Aps. Click here to view it and a video from Rick Steves.
After wandering around the various chapels, I climbed the stairs (with much difficulty) to the roof. It was worth it because I had a wonderful view of the rooftops of the village, the mountains and Palermo in the distance.
I then entered the Benedictine Cloister. Built in 1200 as part of the Cathedral abbey, the cloisters comprise 108 pairs of decorated marble columns, a covered arcade of Arabic arches and a central quad. Every other pair of columns is decorated with unique mosaic patterns and each is topped by a floral capital. The overall effect is one of not quite perfect symmetry, but absolute perfection. The real beauty of it all; however, lies in that you are strolling around the cloisters of a European abbey, but you could equally be relaxing in the internal garden of a sultan's house in the Damascus or Cairo of long ago. I stayed a long time in the peaceful cloister, wandering the paths and imagining the Benedict monks strolling and saying their prayers.
I stayed in Cefalu Easter Sunday and Monday enjoying the beach. There were a lot of tourists here for Easter weekend. So, all the stalls were open along the beach selling jewlery, leather handbags, and ceramics. I parked my car at the “free” end of the lungomare furthest from the center of Cefalu. It is quite rocky here and you can see algae in the water; however, it is much quieter here and there are staircases down to the beach. It is a nicewalk along the path to the more popular part of the beach. Here all the “gelato” places were opened doing a brisk business. Couples were sunbathing while children were playing in the waves. All the stores and gas stations were closed so they take Easter seriously here. It really felt like a family holiday with many grown-up children going home for the holidays.
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I took the small road back and took the spur that goes up the side of the mountain. The road dwindles so that you can barely drive along it. However, there are several farms overlooking the sea. The fences are also beginning to bloom with wisteria which is not only beautiful. It also is very fragrant.
